Alright I need to just post this one before it gets any longer! We havent been doing anything too interesting the last few days (data analysis and writing our papers) so I have had time to procrastinate by creating another looong post. Apologies :)
![]() |
gonna miss this.... |
On Monday April 9 we had an intro class about writing our DR proposals and met with our DR groups for the first time to figure out our projects! Mwamhanga, our EP prof and my DR advisor, is very easy going and let us basically decide stuff on our own.
Tuesday April 10 we had a randomly scheduled but nonetheless very interesting EP travelling lecture in the morning to see some examples of environmental conservation in practice in the Karatu District. First we went to a primary school where we planted papaya trees (my favorite stop of the trip). After that, we went to a woman’s house who had a crazy system set up for using livestock manure to produce natural gas for cooking and heating her house (no foul smells, surprisingly!). Our third stop was at a brick-making business that is more energy and resource-efficient for making the bricks used for building houses. We then learned about more efficient stoves that are being sold to houses and restuarants that use less wood for fuel.
![]() |
Myself and Jen with out baby papaya tree, which we named Sipaya :) |
Bright and early on Thursday, the other groups went out for their first day of data collection, but we (EP) drafted our interview questions in the morning and compiled them in a survey, then went out after lunch for a test run. My fieldwork partner was Sarah, a gal from Missouri who goes to Colorado College. We went to Kilimamoja with Niko, the designated guide for interviews there, and talked to a few families, realzing that our group's questions had to be revised and shortened...a lot... which is what we did that night in preparation for our first real day of field work.
A little debrief: Mwamhanga has four guide/translators that he uses for DR. They are all in their 20's or 30's, with backgrounds in wildlife or environmental conservation. The eight of us girls are split into four groups of two, and go out each day with a translator/guide who facilitates our interviews of people we meet throughout the different villages. Along with Niko, the others that we got to work with were Julius, Harry and Sixbert. Each group of 2 to go to one of our interview sites -- Kilimamoja, Mto wa Mbu or Esilaley. Because Esilaley is so spread out and thus less easy to get interviews, two groups would go there every day.
As I sat (procrastinating from doing data analysis) I tried to type up this blog, but realized how incredibly difficult it would be to accurately describe the last week and a half of my time here. I felt bad cutting out sections here and there about the amazing people I got to meet, yet I fear that a tiny paragraph would not be doing them the justice which they deserve. So I tried to pick out the interesting ones or funny ones or favorite families, but it felt wrong to only tell you about some people and not others. But I also knew that I can’t write about each and every person Sarah and I interviewed, and their story and their family, or this would be a record-setting post (I was strugglin with this, as you can see...)
So, for
lack of better idea, I’ve spared you the novel and just decided to include some
things I learned and a handful pictures that might give you a glimpse into the last 8 days which I’ve spent
walking around rural Tanzania, seeing beutiful places and homes and meeting people. It occurred to me one day while staring at the beautiful clouds over the mountains and day-dreaming (at times I think I was slightly delusional from the heat) that I was so incredibly lucky to have such an amazing opportunity. When I'd get tired, or too hot, or hungry or annoyed, I'd remind myself that this was something that most people in the world would never ever get the chance to do or see in their lives. To say
the least, it’s been an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience that I am
so grateful to have had the chance to take part in!
![]() |
If I lived in Tanzania, I'd probably build my home in this part of Mto wa Mbu -- the Rift Valley Escarpment in the background, Simba River nearby and Njoro Spring for fresh water...too beautiful |
It was so interesting to interview people and hear their ideas about climate change. Different people doing EP research are looking at various things: people’s knowledge and awareness of climate change, their coping strategies (on a household level or as pastoralists or farmers) and gender roles. The interviews were conducted by simply walking around and stopping at random houses where people were around to ask them our questions. You see, its quite different here from back home -- for one, people are home during the day and they are willing to talk to you and even let you into their homes.
We have one big questionnaire that each group asks to maximize our sample size (which each of us then used bits and pieces for our own projects). This also made it interesting because we got to hear some interesting stories! However, this was hard at times because it usually took around 30 minutes and some people didn't have that much time. We asked their age, how many children they have, the tribe they’re part of, how long they’ve lived here, their highest level of education and main source of income. Then we asked a slew of questions about the natural water sources in the area, their household water use, their awareness of climate change and either pastoralism or agriculture-related questions, depending on their primary source of income.
Walking around each village, we encountered chickens and dogs roaming about freely, kids in colorful school uniforms holding hands on their walk to school, and people riding by on bicycles with jerry cans strapped like saddle bags to either side on their way to collect water. Sometimes kids who can't be more than 3 years old ride on the back metal rack of a bicycle (like what I have on the back of my purple Schwinn), just holding on tightly as their dad or big brother. Anywhere you look, there's a mama carrying her complacent baby in a sling of fabric wrapped around her back as she walks somewhere (I want to learn how to do that so when I have kids one day I can do it... The mother and baby look so cute and comfortable!). I can't get over how beautiful these people are nor do I ever think I could tire of the breathtaking scenery...I just wish I could take more pictures of them without being a creep.
All in all, Sarah and I spent a total of 2 days in Mto wa Mbu, 2 in Esilaley and 2 in Kilimamoja. As a whole group, we met with elders and village leaders in each of the different towns to ask any questions we wanted. Then one day Sarah and I got to map the dams in Esilaley using GPS (quite inefficiently, as most of the day was spent getting our landcruiser unstuck from the mud after 3 days of rain), and our last day of DR was an unexpectedly epic trip where we got to go on this amazing hour-long hike to a hidden spring in Esilaley to get the GPS points...it was quite the adventure :)
I was surprised at how many people in the villages which we were studying have access to a water tap as their main source for household use. In Kenya, the Maasai all got the water straight out of a river or pond or spring, which were contaminated from excessive human, agriculture and livestock use. So far from what I’ve seen, most people here have access to either their own tap on their property, or a neighbor’s or a community tap at a nearby school (besides the Maasai, actually, who live further away from the main road and are much more spread out because of grazing their livestock)... Some Maasai have access to water from community water tanks, whereas others still travel either walking, via bike or with donkeys carrying the water jugs, to natural or artificial water sources (dams and boreholes) to fill up for their daily needs. The increase in number of water taps has been beneficial by drastically reducing the amount of time people must spend collecting water (walking there, filling up and returning home) – most people told us it takes them less than 10 minutes to collect water, whereas old research I found shows that the responsibility of collecting water often requires so much time that it detracts from the women and children’s ability to work or attend school. Other things I’ve realized (this is preliminary, haven’t run any stats on it yet) are that women and children are most commonly the ones responsible for collecting water – the children most often attend school, but the women are almost all “stay-at home” moms in a sense, because it is their job to collect water, make food, tend to the house, care for the kids, and other things of that nature. Also, the higher the level of education a person has (you’d be amazed how many people have only gone to primary school or haven’t attended any schooling), the more they know about the environment, conservation and climate change.
Everything in Mto wa Mbu is so much closer together, so we were always able to get a lot of interviews on those days. There are many people from various tribes, and all different types of houses. These pictures start on Day 3 of DR because that was when Sarah decided to start asking our interviewees if we could take their photograph to remember them. Some didn't want their photos taken, either because they "hadn't prepared themselves or their kids" or they thought we would try to sell it for money. Although they frequently didn't even look at the camera for the picture, they loved to see it on the digital camera screen and we are happy to have the bit of memory of these people whom we met.
After a non-program day on Sunday which we went into Mto wa Mbu and ate pizza and shopped, we got started on a full week of field work. On Monday the 16th, Sarah, myself and our guide Julius walked around Esilaley where many Maasai have settled to try to find some pastoralists to interview.
After a few interviews near the road, we headed out into the vast expanse of Maasai land to the Maasai bomas and were reacquainted with the swarms of flies which like to call bomas their home. It was an itchy and uncomfortable afternoon as we interviewed different Maasai men and women and learned about their level of education about environmental conservation, househole roles and strategies for coping with lack of suitable grazing pasture and water for their livestock.
![]() |
Sarah and I....and a termite mound. These things are freakin huge and all over the place! |
![]() |
This beautiful mama, along with most of the elder Maasai people, have little schooling or knowledge about climate change and the environment. She was very welcoming and kind to us. |
After the first few days, we had already observed some patterns: many people believe that the only thing that can be done to reduce the effects of climate change is to pray to God. They think that the lack of rain and increasing temperatures are due to peoples sins and just the work of God. This was a little disheartening to hear because we know the reality of it and that it's more or less our fault.... Other people think that the increasing winds were blowing away the clouds, causing the temp to increase and rain to become more infrequent. Some people did recognize the importance of conserving wildlife for the benefit of future generations. Others didn't even know their own age, let along anything about wildlife or environmental conservation. In general, we realized that the level of awareness a person has is generally related to the amount of schooling which they've gone through.
On Tuesday the 17th, we had our focus group discussions (basically a Q&A) in the different villages and learned a lot from speaking with the elders (who have knowledge on how the climate and rainfall patterns have changed over the years) and village leaders.
Speaking of rains, it turns out I was a little misinforming with my last blog's statement about rain. Although it is technically “the rainy season”, that title has grown to have little value because of the erratic, unpredictable and unreliable rains that East Africa now receives. At the time of my last post, it had rained briefly each afternoon for the previous several days, but was followed by another dry spell of over a week. Wednesday morning we woke up to it pouring for the first time (apparently it had been the whole night, but I sleep with earplugs in because of the dogs that bark incessantly all night and the roosters who are unnecessarily early risers). It also poured all night Wednesday into Thursday morning, and again Thursday night into Friday morning. This is good for all the farmers because the prevailing drought conditions have prevented any crops from growing... Up until these rains, all the crop fields of people who rely upon rainfall to water their crops (i.e. everyone) were nothing but little sprouts, despite the fact that its nearly the end of the growing season. However, the downside to these now unpredictable, unreliable and heavy rains is that it can actually be detrimental because of the fact that it sweeps away soil and its nutrients, which then get deposited in bodies of water and jeopardize their quality. Oh, climate change....
![]() |
Pascal and the Maasai trying to get us unstuck....an endeavor that lasted well over an hour. |
![]() |
This beautiful mama we met in Kilimamoja had three adorable daughters who were so smiley and sweet. |
![]() |
some boys walking down the muddy road |
![]() |
emerging from the banana forest, looking to the right...this is the direction which we headed. |
This day was the first time Sarah and I met anyone who was well informed about climate change! On our way up the hill, we stopped at a home where we spoke to an old man that was 70. He surprised us by telling us about the relationship between industries in developed countries and the climate changes affecting not only Africa but the entire world. I was shocked that we learned this from someone of this age (normally the elders have more “traditional” views such as God's will and people's sins are the causes, etc) and we enjoyed hearing what he had to say about the need to encourage wise development practices in developed countries.
It was getting really hot and humid, so we veered off the road to go see the Njoro spring, where the people in this region get their water. A bunch of women were washing clothes right in the Simba River, which is fed by the spring but was solid brown from all the soil washed in from the rains. After a few interviews, we ate lunch on some rocks down by the river, then continued interviewing for the rest of the afternoon.
At our last stop, we interviewed an old Iraqw woman who was 84 and definitely looked it. Iraqw is such an interesting language with lots of rolling and some throaty/scoffing noises.
![]() |
While we interviewed this elder mama, there were some absolutely-freaking-adorable baby goats that were playing around on their wobbly legs and jumping on and off of the rocks. |
Saturday the 21st was our last day of DR field work—woo!! We all planned to do a half-day then meet up around 1 at Pizza Point for lunch. Sarah had decided the night before that she wanted to scope out this spring near Losilwa to get the GPS points to complete her data collection of water sources in the area. Our original plan was to do interviews for a couple hours then go map the spring. However, our driver Boniface, who knew where the spring supposedly was, suggested to Cecilia that we do the spring first, then interview with any extra time. We turned off the main road down towards Maasai Village, and drove on and on for about 20 minutes over the bumpy and little-traveled car path until we reached our destination: a tourist lodge called Eunoto. We got out and spoke with the man who was at the reception desk (literally no one else was around—workers or tourists—the place was empty). Harry and Ceci spoke with the man, Emmanuel, then relayed to us that the spring was an hour long hike away. Were we up for it? Youuu betcha! Ceci decided she would come along, so the 5 of us started on our way, walking first down the gravel road before turning off into the wilderness. We descended into this amazing palm forest with the hugest palm trees I have EVER seen. The ground around them was swampy, but our path was higher up along the rim of this kettle. I was simply amazed at the tropical beauty and had to thank Sarah for 1.) being my DR partner and 2.) deciding that she wanted to map this spring... We had no idea what we were getting ourselves in to, but that hike was definitely one of my favorite things I've done here in East Africa. It was so beautiful and untouched by man....completely peaceful -- or as they say in kiswahili, salama kabisa.
![]() |
Lake Miwaleni, fed by the spring we were in search of. |
The
hike continued on, requiring us to scramble over and between large boulders while climbing up and curving
around the lake Miwaleni.
There was smelly baboon poop everywhere and our guide said that hyenas and babs
are found around the area (no sightings for us, however—thankfully, after
seeing that woman yesterday missing her fingers from a hyena). We descended a
small hill into a banana tree forest with wet, slippery mud just like the previous day's adventure. The
fertile soil stuck to our shoes and we tromped through the forest, saying
"Shikamo" to the elder farmers we encountered, who welcomed us warmly. We learned
that a banana tree takes 6 months to mature, then 2 months to produce its huge
bundle of fruits, after which it no longer produces any more. Emmanuel stopped
suddenly to point out a plant growing. “You know this plant... marijuana?” Sure
enough, there were about 5 plants growing just on the edge of the banana
forest. Surprised because of the harsh penalties for drugs in TZ, we asked
whose it was or if it was just growing there. “That old man over there that we just
spoke with,” our guide responded.
![]() |
on our way back from the waterfall, Sarah took this picture of where we had just hiked too. See the dark green patch on the side of the mountain to the left? Thats where the spring is. Best. Hike. Ever. |
![]() |
Cecilia, Harry, Emmanuel, me and Sarah. The waterfall (kinda hard to see in this pic) is between Emmanuel and myself. |
We headed off to the pizza point to meet the rest of EP and celebrate the end of DR field work. Sarah and I shared a delicious cheesy pizza and couldn't help but brag to the others about our unexpectedly amazing morning and epic last day of DR.
![]() |
Sarah, Karianne, Julia, Laura, Maggie, Katie, Emily and Me! After our delicious lunch at Pizza Point. |
When we got home, Whitney had returned from her days off and
I had her check out my toe. Turns out it was a jigger, and she thinks it
had popped, so she dug out the egg sack with a needle. It was not a very
pleasant experience to say the least, but I’m glad its out (Thank GOD) and now I just have
to keep my foot very clean and hope it doesn’t get infected! I also got ANOTHER nairobi fly bite (this time on my left eyelid, thankfully it was small and is pretty much gone now) AND a burn on my right shin thats turned into a nasty blister...I'm just fallin apart. Hoping to be back in normal condition by the time I return home.
Sunday was our much needed non-program day. In the morning we went to Gibbs farm (a tourist lodge) for a tour of the self-sustaining farm and coffee plantation. Bought some coffee for my momma (surprise!) while others enjoyed fresh-brewed cups. After Gibbs, we went into Karatu to shop and Happy Days for a few beers. After we got back, Paige, Katie, Sarah, Ally, Sarah, Emily and I went for a walk around the big outer loop—it was so beautiful!! Walks will
definitely be happening more before we leave! (less than two weeks....ahh!)
Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday were days dedicated to data analysis. Real exciting stuff = time for me to work on my blog! I know this became another long post, but just think...it may be the last!
I think
we, as individuals and as developed countries, have a LOT to learn from these
people whom we tend to push into the back of our minds and forget about. I know I’ve
gained immensely from living here – what began as “outside my comfort zone” has
now become my home and paradise. Being away from the hussle and bussle of life
back in the U.S., I have had plenty of time to reflect on things I’ve done in
my life and contemplate what I’m doing, as well as to think and dream about my
future. I plan to make some changes in my life – for starters, complaining less (my problems aren't sh*t compared to what people go through here),
associating myself with positive people (why waste my time with jerks or being unhappy?), and most importantly, living more
sustainably because I have seen firsthand the effects of our wasteful lifestyles
on the rest of the world. I hope that
maybe, seeing some of my pictures or hearing some of my stories has inspired
you to do the same—it’s the least I can do for these amazing people that have
changed my life while graciously hosting me in this unforgettable country for
the last semester. I also hope that someday, you or your kids will have the opportunity to see Africa -- and not just on a safari, but the real Africa, and it's people. That's where the true beauty lies.
![]() |
if you do come to Africa, please don't look like big idiots (or make your kids look like idiots) |
Alright, enough of the sap. I may be able to squeeze in one more post before I leave Africa, but I’m not so sure. I know I’ll be soaking up every last bit in my remaining days here, so if I don’t get the chance to post, I apologize. However, when I get back I’ll finally have the chance to share more of my pictures from throughout the semester!
In the mean time, we’re writing up our DR papers and getting ready to present our research to the community on May 4th. Luckily its been raining these last few days so it's been pretty easy to focus on our writing. It's pretty crazy that we leave TZ on the 7th -- it seems so close, yet far away... still haven't quite figured out how time works. This week has already flown by and I know that with ongoing preparation for our big presentations, time will only continue to fly by.
While a couple students changed their tickets to stay in East Africa for a little vacation time, I chose to extend my stay in London for a week back when I booked my plane ticket in November. My parents probably weren’t too pleased with that, but it’s my money and I figured hey, since I’m already on this side of the pond, I might as well do some exploring! I’m staying in London the night of the 8th, then hopping on the good ol' Megabus (who knew they had Megabus in the UK?! I can officially say that I'm now their #1 supporter) and going to Paris to meet up with my friend Molly, a fellow Tommie who is studying abroad there this semester. We’re flying (quite cheaply) from Paris to Dublin on the 11th and exploring Ireland until the 16th, when we both hop on a plane back to London to catch our flights home!.
I’m looking forward to seeing my family, relatives and friends in Wisconsin before I head back up to Saint Paul around June 1 to work for the summer!!! Oh, and pretty excited to see all you crazy Minnesotans as well :) Good luck to all my friends studying for exams (haha...suckaaas! no tests for me!), and congrats to those of you who are graduating this year--I hope to see you before you venture off to grad school or whatever endeavors you are pursuing.
Baadaye...see you later :)
No comments:
Post a Comment